A trusted fishmonger offers only the freshest selection of seafood.

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What to look for when you go shopping

Short of being there when the boat docks, you can ensure the freshest, highest-quality fish only by buying it from a store that specializes in it. Some of the signs that you're in the right place: (1) a display case full of whole fish that have bright, clear eyes; (2) a moist, clean appearance to all the fish displayed; and (3) knowledgeable people who can explain how each variety looks and tastes, where they were caught and the best ways to prepare them.

And if there's a strong "fishy" smell in the air, go somewhere else. Fresh fish does not have a strong smell. When you put your nose next to a fresh fish, all you should smell is the sea. Freshwater fish should not smell strong, either. The worst myth about fish is that it stinks. Only old fish stinks.

Fish comes in various forms, depending on its size. Smaller fish (up to 3 pounds or so) are often sold in whole form, skin, fins, bones and all. Technically, most whole fish are actually "drawn" (guts, scales and gills removed), all to the best because these elements accelerate spoilage. Fish cut from the bone and trimmed becomes fillets. Larger fish can come as fillets or steaks, which are whole cross-section pieces.

Rule of thumb: the more the fishmonger does to the fish before it gets to you, the higher the price per pound. In other words, fillets usually cost more per pound than steaks which cost more per pound than whole fish. Every time a fish is handled, it deteriorates a little faster, so unless the fish market is a busy one with fast turnover of its product, the best tack is to select whole fish and have the fishmonger cut it into fillets or steaks.

Like wine, different types of fish offer different flavors and textures. The shape and color of a fish provide clues to its gastronomic qualities. Generally, white-fleshed flat fish such as sole, flounder and halibut have the mildest flavor and lowest fat content. The best varieties have a tight grain with silky texture. Rounder, darker fish such as salmon, tuna and swordfish have more distinctive flavors. Their richer fat content makes for smooth texture.

How much fish to buy? Figure on 6 ounces edible portion or a little less, which is roughly two and a half servings per pound of fillets, two servings per pound of steaks and one and a quarter servings per pound of whole fish. These are generous main-course serving sizes, so consider them maximum amounts.

Here is a handy chart to figure your next dinner party: