The multi-named soft-shell clam, like
these from New York's Long Island, can be enjoyed in a variety
of ways. |
Shell Game
Clams are an American tradition
In Fading Feast, food critic Raymond Sokolov argues that "the New England clambake has as much claim to the title of our national feast as Thanksgiving." Not surprising, because clams were much more in evidence at that first Thanksgiving than were turkeys. "North America is the best place in the world for clams," writes Alan Davidson in Seafood: A Connoisseur's Guide and Cookbook. But don't wait for a clambake to enjoy America's favorite bivalve.
Clams fall into two categories: hard-shell and soft-shell. The gray, hard-shell clams found in bays, tidal flats and on beaches of the East Coast are all members of the same species. They are distinguished only by size and are the most widely available fresh clams. (Ocean clams are used in canned and frozen products.) Button clams are the smallest of the hard-shell variety. They are just right for linguine with clam sauce, though the more accessible littlenecks are typically used. The larger littlenecks, about 14 per pound, are also great steamed or in a seafood stew.
Topnecks, which come 10 to 12 per pound, have great versatility. Steam them, turn them into clams casino (baked with breadcrumbs and bacon), serve them raw on the half shell, or pair them with other seafood. Cherrystones, at 8 to 10 per pound, are in a kind of "clam no-man's-land" as far as Bob Groben is concerned. "They're too big to put on the half shell and too small to chop up for chowder," says Groben, who owns Groben's Seafood, a retail store in Philadelphia. Nonetheless, many think cherrystones are just fine on the half shell, grilled, baked, or used in clams casino.
Hefty quahogs are the offensive linemen of the clam world at about 5 per pound. They are also as tough as leather helmets, so they have to be chopped for dishes like chowder. Most people steam quahogs first, but Groben shucks them raw, then grinds them in a food processor. Like most other Rhode Islanders, Ralph Conte, owner of Raphael Bar-Risto in Providence, R.I., makes his chowder with a clear broth—no cream (New England) or tomato (Manhattan).
Eastern hard-shell clams can be found year-round from Canada to Florida. Groben shies away from warm-water clams because they're more perishable. Conte thinks cold-water clams taste better. "New England littlenecks are vibrant, clean and salty. Clams from down south don't have the same quality," he says.
There are three main types of West Coast hard-shell clams, all available year-round. Manilas are hard-shell clams that can be found predominantly from central California to British Columbia. They're sweeter than Eastern clams because they have lots of glycogen (the carbohydrate common to clams). Manila clams are typically steamed and are not served raw on the half shell.
The giant geoduck (pronounced "goo-ee-duck") can reach up to 9 pounds, but is more commonly harvested at 2 to 3 pounds. The trunklike meat, which overflows the shell, needs to be pounded into submission, similar to abalone, then sliced and quickly sautéed. The Japanese, who prize the geoduck, slice it paper-thin and serve it sashimi-style.
Razor shell clams get their name from their shells, which look like glossy straight razors, though most razor clams are sold out of their shells. Paul Ornstein, executive chef of the Southpark Seafood Grill & Wine Bar in Portland, Ore., sautés them quickly and serves them with white wine butter or hazelnuts and lemon zest. If you find them in the shell, sprinkle them with Parmesan cheese and quickly broil them for a terrific appetizer. Chileans love them this way.
There is basically only one soft-shell clam, but it has more nicknames than God: steamer, piss clam, maninose, nannynose, Ipswich, squirt clam and longneck, to name a few. The last moniker is indicative of the clam's protruding neck, which is a turnoff for some. "Every so often I bring in Ipswich clams, and people have no idea what they are. I wind up eating them myself," Ornstein says.
Because soft shells don't close tightly—hence another nickname, gapers—they must be purged of sand by soaking for several hours in water and cornmeal. Soft-shells are also more perishable and more expensive, two reasons why Groben doesn't carry them. But New Englanders love them, usually steamed and dipped in melted butter.
Clams don't yet have the cachet of oysters. There are no comparative clam tasting or wine matching events. Tom Bettinger of Taylor United Inc., in Shelton, Wash., the largest clam farmer on the West Coast, thinks one reason is that clams tend to be cooked, whereas oysters are more often eaten raw, which allows subtle distinctions to emerge. Another factor is that clams aren't raised in as many places as oysters, so the effect of terroir isn't as evident. But that's changing as companies like Taylor start raising clams in places as far-flung as the island of Hawaii and Baja, Mexico.
Though you might be tempted when heading back from the beach, avoid clams from roadside freelancers. The clams could be from unapproved waters. All shellfish are strictly regulated and must be accompanied by a tag of origin. Hard-shell clams should be closed and stored in the refrigerator in a bowl or colander covered with a damp towel. They'll last about five days, two days if shucked. Before cooking, brush off any surface dirt under cool running water. Clams that don't open easily during cooking can be pried open with a knife. If they don't smell bad, they're fine. Clams are ready as soon as they open; don't cook them longer unless you like the texture of erasers.
Steaming is probably the simplest way to enjoy clams, particularly littlenecks. Conte makes a sensational steamed clam dish called Clam Zuppa. First, sauté onions, garlic and clams in butter and olive oil. Add white wine when the onions become translucent. Cover the pot until the clams open, then add fresh herbs like parsley or basil and crushed red pepper—you can also add some chopped tomato. Serve with crunchy Italian bread.
It's hard to find any seafood that's more accommodating to seasonings than clams. Clams with black bean sauce appears on the menu of many typical Chinese restaurants. On the Iberian Peninsula, clams and pork are a favorite combo. I made a Portuguese stew of clams (topnecks or littlenecks) with cubed pork loin, sweet peppers and tomatoes, which my friends raved about. And don't forget garlic. I can still smell the garlicky, fingernail-sized clams I ate years ago in a seafood shack in the Camargue region of France.