Caviar.The latest entries in the caviar world come from the cured roe of a variety of American fish such as white sturgeon, rainbow trout and Paddlefish (from top).
Caviar
Becoming a connoisseur

Caviar, like Champagne, is a word that brings luxury to mind. Real caviar is the salted roe, or eggs, of Caspian Sea sturgeon. Its marine flavor and rich, caressing texture have set it apart for centuries. Since the fall of the Soviet Union, however, Caspian sturgeon has suffered from over fishing, poaching and an increasingly polluted habitat. Beluga sturgeon (one of the prime species, along with osetra and sevruga) has been particularly affected. After decades of largely unregulated harvesting, true caviar is genuinely endangered.

Types of Caviar

Beluga is the largest of the sturgeons, growing up to 20 feet long and producing the largest eggs. The eggs are rich and buttery, their delicate texture the result of having thinner membranes than other caviar. Their color is light to dark gray.

Osetra eggs are of medium size, gold to brown in color and sometimes described as having a nutty flavor.

Sevruga eggs are the smallest, making for a creamier mouth feel, compared with the other types. They also tend to have the most intense flavor.

Alternatives to Caspian Sea varieties—cured roe from fish of other origins—are available. Among the best are farmed sturgeon from California, France and Uruguay; wild hackleback sturgeon and paddlefish from American rivers; salmon from the Pacific Ocean and the Great Lakes; rainbow trout from North Carolina; and whitefish from Montana.

The roes of hackleback and paddlefish found within the Mississippi River can be comparable to the more expensive Russian caviars. Hackleback is a species of sturgeon, and although its small, black eggs hardly resemble the larger, grayer Caspian eggs, they do have a buttery and sweet finish. Paddlefish are close enough to sturgeon to be considered a cousin, and while paddlefish roe is strikingly similar in taste to Caspian Sea sevruga caviar, it’s a lot less expensive.

Farmed osetra caviar from Uruguay is very impressive; the tiny, rich, jet-black eggs provide a long finish.

Orange in color, salmon roe is quite fishy on its own, considerably less so when used in cooking—with scrambled eggs or on pasta, for example. With its delicate sea-breeze smell and gentle salty sea flavor, farmed yellow-orange whitefish caviar works best as a garnish.

Serving Caviar

When dealing with good caviar, use as little embellishment as possible. Eat it straight using nonmetallic spoons—mother-of-pearl, bone, even plastic is OK—or put it on blinis or thin points of bread, possibly with a light dollop of sour cream. Don’t serve caviar too cold or you’ll miss its nuances; 60° F is about right. Unopened caviar will last one to two weeks stored at 32° F to 36° F. Once opened, caviar should be consumed within 48 hours.

Caviar and Wine

Vodka and Champagne are the commonly chosen accompaniments to caviar—the former for its clean taste and high alcohol content; the latter because both caviar and Champagne are bubbly and luxurious. However, give rich and full-bodied California Chardonnay a try.

How To Get Caviar

Browne Trading Co., Portland, ME, (800) 944-7848, www.browne-trading.com
Collins Caviar, Chicago, IL, (800) 858-7100, www.collinscaviar.com
D’Artagnan, Newark, NJ, (800) 327-8246, www.dartagnan.com
Paramount Caviar, Long Island City, NY, (800) 992-2842, www.paramountcaviar.com
Russ & Daughters, New York, NY, (800) 787-7229, www.russanddaughters.com
Stolt Sea Farm California, Elverta, CA, (800) 525-0333, www.sterlingcaviar.com
Sunburst Trout Co., Canton, NC, (800) 673-3051, www.sunbursttrout.com
Tsar Nicoulai Caviar, San Francisco, CA, (800) 952-2842, www.tsarnicoulai.com